vendredi 17 août 2012

Lion ridge Mattherhorn 4478m

Some mountains are like strong magnets for climbers.
Just thinking about them, looking at them on pictures, naming them can make you sweat !
When you feel ready to climb them, you put all your rasta courage into it.
Reaching the top is like a little dream, a complete achievment …
Cervino, aka Matterhorn is one of them. This triangular peak might be the most famous mountain in the world. Anyway it’s the most recognizable. The Swiss have even made a chocolate which have its shape. Yes ! each time you are eating toblerone, you are biting a bit of Matterhorn ! miam !
And you know, there are more chocolate lovers in this world than mountains lovers.
But for climbing the Lion ridge of Cervino, I have found one who is both ;)

We met at Cervinia, the italian side of Matterhorn, with Ena. And we decided to follow François Cazzanelli and his client Andrea on a « one push » climb of Lion ridge.
François is a local guide from Cervinia. His grand father was a guide , his father is a guide and he knows the lion ridge like his pocket. Almost as talented as funny, if you are looking for a local guide, he is the man you have to call : 00393921420436.

Our long day starts at 3 am with 1h of little slepp in Andrea’s 4 wheel drive to reach rifugio duca degli abruzzi (2802m).

Then a good warm up walking in the dark until « Carrel croce » the begining of real climb. We reach the first fixed rope with the first light and then have a good breakfast on « Cabane Carrel » Coffee, Chocolate, Cigar… full energy for the day !

After cabane, the climb is never too hard but never too easy too ! You pass lot of vertical steps but the big fixed ropes or chains make the ascent safer, cool and funny !

The way is sometimes a bit smart to find. But in this very « guide » terrain and thanks to François we are fast. Short pitches, bim bam boum, 10 o’clock on summit. 4478m.
Just the time for a quick picture with the cross, little kiss, chocolate of course and we have to go down.

More than 1600 m are still waiting for us…With the tiredness you really have to stay focus so we take our time until the « cabane carrel » . It ‘s crowded with people and we are happy not to sleep here tonight… A party is waiting for us in Cervinia, so we just stop for a short break, at least we deserve it !
We arrive to the car at 5h pm. 13 hours of continous climbing up and down.
Every muscles are tired and a bit painfull but  huge smiles are on our faces.

This long day will last longer and longer in the night. Because italian friends are good for climbing of course but very good for celebrating summit too ;)

One more beautiful day in the mountain.
One less climbing wish on our little list !

Now what ? Who knows… The climbing wish list is still wide.

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