samedi 2 mars 2013

Croatian Attack on EMHM ice fall



« La massue » was my dreaming ice fall. Like every dream I was not really sure to achieve it, and I was wondering about keep on ice climbing after this one…
The truth is I like ice fall too much to stop it… I just think that it’s good to climb lines like this not so often…

I wanted to climb something I never did, a bit easier and way more safe ;)

Croatian friends were at home in Chamonix and were motivated by ice climbing too.


Together we pick « EMHM icefall » in order to play with the tools and have a nice day in the range.

They have very few ice fall in croatia and it was a pleasure to bring them in my playground.

Vedran Salopek, Dragan Dragicevic and Ivica Jurkovic are mountain rescuers from Ogulin station. Ena Vrbek is also mountain rescuer but from Zagreb station. They are all aspirant to become rescue instructors and they are great friends. (A bit more for Ena ;))

On the 2nd of march we took our skis to approach the ice fall.
We climbed the first easy (60°) pitch together and then we divided into two teams.


Vedran, Dragec and Ivica have been on the right side of the wall (EMHM de droite).



70m of nice ice, two pitches graded 4 with almost vertical section (85°) and they arrived on top of the line.

With Ena we have chosen the left side of the same ice fall (EMHM de gauche). Two pitches too but a bit more steep (90°) and graded 4+.


After 2 long abseils we arrived to our skis.
A nice ride on the bottom part of Argentière Glacier brings us to the car.
One more great day in the mountain. Ice, Sun and Friends… What a great coktail.


See you next year Ogulin’s friends. Don’t forget to bring your delightful Rakija and let’s go in the mountains ;)

Ante ;)



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