jeudi 22 août 2013

Jenjavi - Anica kuk

Paklenica is like a candy box for climbers. You can pick a spicy little boulder, a very sweet sportclimbing route, a tastefull short multipitch… all of these in a fantastic landscape, close to adriatic sea and on a limestone close to perfection !

If you want to find the little cherry on the cake you should definetly look toward Anica kuk. If you like big wall climbing, this « El croatian Cap » will suit you like hell.
Every climber when looking at this gorgeous NW face will feel his palm sweating and his heart beating… Only one option : climbing this 350 m of vertical rock.

One more time there are routes for everyone. « Rookies Big wallers » will have fun in esay classics such as « Mosoraski » or « Velabitaski » (both routes are graded 6a maximum). Expert ones will play and put all their energy in « Brid Klina » (7b+), «Himalaya sport» (7c+) and why not the irrestible «Spider» (8a).

Whatever your favourite style : crags, walls, overhangs, slabs… you will definetly enjoy climbing in Anica Kuk.

Last year with Ena Vrbek we climbed the beautiful « Albatros » (7a)

This year my favourite local mountain rescuer wanted to try « Jenjavi » (7a+). On last 22 of august at 8 am. We were at bottom of the wall :

The route is realy easyy to find. You have nice pannels and good trails in this National Park and even the name of the route is written below first pitch.

The 3 first pitches are definetly the crux of the route (7a,7a+,6c+). The style of climbing is slightly overhanging with finger mooves on crimps and crags. Foot work is important too but the climbing is mostly physical. Power endurance is the key to onsight this first part of the route. The route is so well (too much ?!?) bolted that aid climbing would be quite easy. But it really worth  kicking his own little bottom to  free climb it.

Just one little fall at the very end of 7a+ prevents Ena to flash as a second these 3 beautiful pitches but she arrives to belay with a hudge smile. 

It’s now her turn to lead. The 4 th pitch is a long traverse to the left. It’s graded 6a, really well bolted and the holds are quite good but it’s bit impressive climbing with 100m of vertical rock below feet.

One other really nice 5c on crazy limestone leads you to the easyy pitch graded 4a.

7th,8th and 9th pitches are in the same style. (6b,6a+,6a). Bit of overhang on really good holds. At this point  arms and fingers start to pain you smoothly. The really nice ledge on 7th belay should be appropriate for a litlle rest but there is still along way to summit…

Ena leads the 3 last pitches and the 10 th will remember her swear words for ages. Unfortunatly my parents education prevent me from translating… but this « stupid » classical 6a chimney is really something. It can be called climbing but with every single part of your body. One more time the really good bolting make the fall not dangerous even if you want everything but falling in this chimney !

Two beautiful and easy going pitches of 5a brings you to summit of the route.

Then few meters of walking are needed to reach summit of Anica kuk. The sea side view is fantastic and you can be pleased of this beautiful climb.

It tooks us 7h to climb this 350 m route (7a,7a+,6c+,6a,5c,4a,6b,6a+,6a,6a,5a,5a)
but we managed to onsight every pitches we leaded. One more reason to have a big smile on summit.

30 to 45 minutes are needed to go down in this « mountain goat » terrain with classical red and white marks to guide you.

So climbers from all over Europa, you should hurry up to go discovering this beautiful Anica kuk. I am just afraid you will fall in love with the wall and want to go climbing there again and again.

Equipment needed :

·      Harnesses, climbing shoes and chalk.
·      Helmets (Thank you Dragec ;)
·      14 quickdraws.
·      3 screw biners and belay device for each climber.
·      2 *120 cm slings.
·      50m climbing rope and 50m hauling rope.
·      Guide book (Boris Cujic, Paklenica 2013 Edition)
·      Coffee before climbing, Fish dinner with good beers after climbing at Dinko. The best restaurant in Paklenica, located near entrance of Big Canyon when you leave the main road. « Nema Dinka do Dinka »
·      Little pharmacy or at least  phone number of  mountain rescue service (HGSS). I can recommand you some cute rescue girls ;)

Antoine Bletton.

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