Antoine Bletton: Humanality, Tonsaï Wall, Thaïlande

« Life is like a box of chocolate, you never know what you are gonna get » Fuckin’ hell ! Forrest Gump was not kidding ! In fact, he was right, if you consider that in the box of chocolate you have some flavoured with itching pepper or strong chilli ! By accident you pick one of them, and then you don’t feel like tasting any other chocolate in your whole life… After thinking a bit you remember, there are as well delicious chocolates in that box. You have already experienced rich flavors, one is allowed to be « a bit » hard to digest every now and then ! Good bye Dimitri, see you not so soon my chilli… I will miss your stupid taste.

By chance, few days before experiencing this itching taste in my throat, I was enjoying a lot of sweet moments… Honey moon it is called, and it ‘s simply great !

Climbing a multi pitch in Thaïland is almost like an apology to this activity. The country, the ambiance is so dedicated to relaxation and wellness. Everything here sounds like an invitation to laziness. Temperature, humidity just make you want to dive into water to get a bit more fresh. Except sea temperature is like air temperature : 30 °C

Thaï food is simply delicious. Tasty rice, crazy vegetables in a coconut and curry cream, fresh shrimps and fishes… Delicious are the drink also. Fresh fruits that you can mix with ice or yoghurt and coconut milk. An other invitation do to nothing else than resting, eating and drinking…

But a climber’s honeymoon requires also great climbing on the best quality rock. By chance, Tonsaï is also perfect for that. Limestone cliffs between 20 and 200 m surround this beautiful beach. The shape of the rock is completely amazing. Stalactites, tuffas, holes… every size, every shape. A pleasure for looking and also for climbing.

Humanality might be the multi pitch with coolest access on the planet. Barefoot, topless and wearing board shorts, just drop your fruit cocktail on the counter of « freedom bar », walk 5 seconds on the sand and climb the little bamboo ladder which access the beginning of the route.

First pitch is quite easy : 5c. You climb behind a hudge stalactite, traverse the ledge on left and this is it.

Second Pitch starts with a beautiful stalactite. Exiting it might be a bit cruxy, but never more than 6b.

Third pitch is bit impressive on first look. Quite overhanging but with beautiful and big holds : 6a+.

Fourth pitch, graded 6b is a beautiful wall. Only problem here, will be to select which tuffa you will climb on: The nice one on the right ? The big one on the left ? Why not go straight ? Anyway, you can climb everywhere…

Fifth pitch is known to be the crux. It’s a beautiful and « long » 6b+. On the last part of the pitch, just think 3D to pass through this enormous stalactite. You might feel the impression to be on a completly futuristic ice fall, only difference is with the big and safe titatium bolts you are using ☺

Then, you reach a little cave which protects you from the sun (until 1PM). Last pitch is a short but, one more time, really beautiful 6b.

You go back to the cave where the abseil line starts.

You need 3 abseils of 30m to reach the beach. Last abseil will lead you directly inside the « freedom bar ». This is not a joke, you can order a last coktail of fresh fruits or a cold beer, still hanging on the rope.

You just need to take of your harness and climbing shoes, grab your drink and enjoy it on the beach, looking at this beautiful route you just climbed… What else ?

Of course You won’t go to Thaïland just for multi pitch climbing. The thousands of sport routes around really worth the trip. It is also the perfect place to try « deep water soloing ». Every of these magical moments in a honeymoon atmosphere made it like a dream trip.