Paklenica
is like a candy box for climbers. You can pick a spicy little boulder, a very
sweet sportclimbing route, a tastefull short multipitch… all of these in a
fantastic landscape, close to adriatic sea and on a limestone close to
perfection !
If
you want to find the little cherry on the cake you should definetly look toward
Anica kuk. If you like big wall climbing, this « El croatian Cap »
will suit you like hell.
Every
climber when looking at this gorgeous NW face will feel his palm sweating and his
heart beating… Only one option : climbing this 350 m of vertical rock.
One
more time there are routes for everyone. « Rookies Big wallers » will
have fun in esay classics such as « Mosoraski »
or « Velabitaski » (both routes are graded 6a maximum).
Expert ones will play and put all their energy in « Brid Klina » (7b+), «Himalaya sport» (7c+) and why not the irrestible «Spider» (8a).
Whatever
your favourite style : crags, walls, overhangs, slabs… you will definetly
enjoy climbing in Anica Kuk.
Last
year with Ena Vrbek we climbed the beautiful « Albatros » (7a).
This year my favourite local mountain
rescuer wanted to try « Jenjavi »
(7a+). On last 22 of august at 8 am. We were at bottom of the wall :
The
route is realy easyy to find. You have nice pannels and good trails in this
National Park and even the name of the route is written below first pitch.
The
3 first pitches are definetly the crux of the route (7a,7a+,6c+). The style of climbing is slightly overhanging with
finger mooves on crimps and crags. Foot work is important too but the climbing
is mostly physical. Power endurance is the key to onsight this first part of
the route. The route is so well (too much ?!?) bolted that aid climbing
would be quite easy. But it really worth
kicking his own little bottom to free climb it.
Just
one little fall at the very end of 7a+ prevents Ena to flash as a second these
3 beautiful pitches but she arrives to belay with a hudge smile.
It’s now her
turn to lead. The 4 th pitch is a long traverse to the left. It’s graded 6a, really well bolted and the holds
are quite good but it’s bit impressive climbing with 100m of vertical rock
below feet.
One
other really nice 5c on crazy
limestone leads you to the easyy pitch graded 4a.
7th,8th
and 9th pitches are in the same style. (6b,6a+,6a).
Bit of overhang on really good holds. At this point arms and fingers start to pain you smoothly.
The really nice ledge on 7th belay should be appropriate for a litlle rest but
there is still along way to summit…
Ena
leads the 3 last pitches and the 10 th will remember her swear words for ages.
Unfortunatly my parents education prevent me from translating… but this
« stupid » classical 6a chimney
is really something. It can be called climbing but with every single part of
your body. One more time the really good bolting make the fall not dangerous
even if you want everything but falling in this chimney !
Two beautiful
and easy going pitches of 5a brings
you to summit of the route.
Then few meters of walking are needed to reach
summit of Anica kuk. The sea side view is fantastic and you can be pleased of
this beautiful climb.
It
tooks us 7h to climb this 350 m route (7a,7a+,6c+,6a,5c,4a,6b,6a+,6a,6a,5a,5a)
but
we managed to onsight every pitches we leaded. One more reason to have a big
smile on summit.
30
to 45 minutes are needed to go down in this « mountain goat » terrain
with classical red and white marks to guide you.
So climbers
from all over Europa, you should hurry up to go discovering this beautiful
Anica kuk. I am just afraid you will fall in love with the wall and want to go
climbing there again and again.
Equipment
needed :
·
Harnesses, climbing shoes and chalk.
·
Helmets (Thank you Dragec ;)
·
14 quickdraws.
·
3 screw biners and belay device for each
climber.
·
2 *120 cm slings.
·
50m climbing rope and 50m hauling rope.
·
Guide book (Boris Cujic, Paklenica 2013 Edition)
·
Coffee before climbing, Fish dinner with good
beers after climbing at Dinko. The best restaurant in Paklenica, located near
entrance of Big Canyon when you leave the main road. « Nema Dinka do
Dinka »
·
Little pharmacy or at least phone number of mountain rescue service (HGSS). I can
recommand you some cute rescue girls ;)
Antoine
Bletton.
